The main goal is to find a technology to jellify a fluid without using macromolecules or concentrated surfactant systems. The fluid in question may be water or oils (eg. hydrocarbons, triglycerides, fatty acids and esters - mostly saturated). The concentration of the gelling agent should be below 5% w/w. (preferentially < 2% w/w).
Details of the Technology Call
SHOULD HAVE (we are open for your ideas, so proposals slightly out of these limits are also welcome):
- The desired thickening/jellifying agent should be a small molecule (molecular weight below 1000 g/mol) or inorganic particles that are able to increase the viscosity of water or oils.
- The formulations are to be used in skin care products, so a toxicologically safe profile is mandatory.
- Preferentially, toxicology, genotoxicity, ecotoxicity and degradability data for the proposed agent should be available.
- Sensibilization and skin compatibility data would also be appreciated
MUST NOT HAVE:
- Polymeric molecules should not be used.
Technical requirements
SHOULD HAVE (we are open for your ideas, so proposals slightly out of these limits are also welcome):
- The concentration of the gelling agent should be below 5%, and preferentially below 2%.
- The gelling agent should preferentially work in a range of pH from 4 to 9.
- The gelling agent should also be effective in the presence of electrolites (up to 2% wt. NaCl).
- The gelling effect should be visible at room temperature (25ºC).
- Storage modulus (E') is expected be higher than the loss modulus (E'') by at least one order of magnitude at low shear rates (1 to 10 1/s).
- The resulting gel should flow under higher shear rates - however, the structure must be recovered when the material is again at rest.
Possible solution areas
- Solutions from all fields - and not only cosmetics - will be considered.
Previously attempted solutions (discarded)
- Polymers, including biopolymers and nanocrystalline cellulose.
- Concentrated surfactant systems such as: lamellar phases, giant micelles and similar concepts.
- Oligomers with molecular weight above 1000 g/mol.
- Technologies based on aluminum containing clays.
- Fumed silica particles.
- CMR substances.
- Thickeners for silicones.